Monday, August 30, 2021

Creating My Oki Style Antwoord Top

While browsing Etsy for some indie patterns, I recently discovered this gem of a designer Oki Bukhuu. She creates and sells her sewing patterns under the name OkiStyle. I was drawn to her unique style which she describes as "experimental and alternative." I decided to take a plunge and give her pattern a try. 

The Antwoord Top features an asymmetrical collar with cut-out half-round neckline and extended shoulders. I have posted a detailed review of the pattern at PatternReview.Com. This post will focus on the construction aspect of the garment focusing on the trickiest part which is the neckline. 

The top itself is very simple to make. It has only three pattern pieces--the bodice (which is a single piece that include both front and back already), the neckline facing and the collar. 

Pattern Pieces

The bodice piece is such a clever design.  It is cut on fold and that is how the front and back are created. There is no shoulder seam, no hole for neckline, no sleeves. 

This is the neckline facing which is cut as a single piece and interfaced.  It helps to mark the front and back corners as they are asymmetrical. The front has a curved edge to it as opposed to the back which is more pointed. 

This is the collar piece and it is cut twice. I only interfaced one of the pieces. The photo is that of the muslin version I made.  Next photo is the actual contrast fabric I used which is left over from a previous project. 


Transferring Markings

This part may be a bit confusing. The single pattern piece which is laid out on the fold of the garment does not have any specifications as to front, back, shoulder, etc. The only markings included are for the neckline facing attachment and although one is labeled front and one labeled back, they are both located on the same piece. 

The trick is to trace the front marking to one side of the fabric while folded and then turn the fabric over and trace the back marking. The resulting marking should be a smooth curved one when fabric is unfolded. That will be used to match with the outer marking on the neckline facing. 

Some useful tips

Reinforce the corners with tiny stitches and square piece of silk organza prior to slashing. 

Mark the center of the markings to serve as guide for cutting. 

Clip curves before turning facing out. 

Here is a view of the half round neckline after facing has been turned. 

For the hem, I used narrow hemming following my favorite technique which you can read about here.

And now for some photos of the finished garment. 

Wednesday, July 28, 2021

Alabama Chanin Anna's Garden Fitted Top & Skirt

I made my first Alabama Chanin top four years ago and slowly but steadily I have been adding to my handmade collection. This time I made a matching top and skirt. I already blogged extensively about the process involved here and it includes some helpful info on materials used for the stencil and the sewing. For this post, I am highlighting the finished outfit with some pertinent details included. 

Here is a flatlay of the outfit. 

Front of the Top & Skirt

Back of the Top & Skirt

For this outfit, I layered two fabrics so I could use the reverse appliqué method. I used 100% organic cotton knit fabric purchased from Nina Chicago online store. The inner fabric is in camel and the outer fabric is called ruby red. 

This is the front of the top shown with stencil already painted on. 

Once again I used my favorite stencil, Anna's Garden. 

Here is a look at the stenciled front. I airbrushed it with Createx fabric paint in the color Pearlized Copper. 

For handstitching around the stenciled motifs, I used a variegated cotton thread. This is the Aurifil brand weight 12 in the color "Creme Brûlée" (no. 4150). This was my first time using this thread and of all the cotton threads I have used for my previous projects (that included Coats & Clark, Wawak and Alabama Chanin embroidery thread), I found this the easiest to work with. It hardly twisted and the texture is so smooth and silky!

Photos of work in progress. 

The front of the top after all hand stitching was completed. 

The magic begins! Cutting out the center of the motifs. 

Two front skirt pieces with hand stitching completed. 

Back of the skirt after the center back seam was sewn. 

Magic begins on the skirt!

And now the fun part--photos of the finished garments!

Back view with center back seam.

Front of the skirt has center back seam and waistline has 5/8" foldover elastic. 

1-1/4" self fabric binding on cap sleeves. Sleeves are only made of one fabric layer. 

1-1/4" binding on neckline. 

Skirt left unfinished.

View of inside. In case you're wondering, those knots and threads don't really bother me when I'm wearing the garment!

I really love how my outfit turned out! I cannot wait to begin another project!