Saturday, February 1, 2020

Vogue 1606 Anne Klein Blazer

A little more than a month ago, I purchased three yards of this gorgeous Rag &Bone wool blend suiting fabric from Mood Fabrics. It did not take long for it to be all sewn up. I was able to make a pair of trousers and shorts and a blazer. This post today is all about the blazer. 

The pattern I chose was from Vogue. If you don’t check the line art, you won’t realize from the model’s photo that the blazer has some nice design lines which actually worked well for my fabric. 

My fabric had a houndstooth and tattersall pattern that required some serious matching. 

The blazer front pieces are connected to the back pieces by a single side piece (so there is no real side seam). That made it tricky for my fabric pattern matching. It meant I had to match front, side and back. To make it easier, I decided to cut the side piece on the bias and stabilized with interfacing cut on lengthwise grain. Hence I ended up with a nice play on the fabric pattern as shown below.

The piece on the left is the bias cut side piece and the one on the right is cut on lengthwise grain. 

 These are the two front pieces sewn to the front edge of the side piece. 

I did the same thing with the sleeves which has two pieces—front and undersleeve. The front piece needed to be eased in to the undersleeve so there was no way my fabric patterns would match. As shown here, I cut the undersleeve on the bias. 

Unlike the other bodice pieces the sleeves were not interfaced so I stabilized the bias cut undersleeve by underlining with silk organza cut on lengthwise grain. 

Inside view of the two sleeves sewn together along one seam. Here the difference in grain direction is more clearly seen. 

Here are photos of the finished garment showing the areas with bias cut pieces.

I lifted the sleeve up to show the side piece that connects the front to the back. 

This is a closeup of the sleeve seam between the front sleeve and the undersleeve which was cut on bias. 

For the rest of the pieces that I had to pattern match, I did the following to ensure accuracy:

Cut using single layout with fabric right side up and pattern right side up. 

 For pattern pieces in pairs (like two front and two back), use the first cut piece as a guide for placement of second piece to ensure the fabric patterns match. 

When it was time to sew, I used walking foot to ensure even feeding of the top and bottom fabrics being sewn. I also hand basted seams before sewing. 

Here are some photos showing pattern matching. 

This is the front piece sewn to the front facing. 

The two back pieces have been carefully matched at the center seam.

 The front piece matching with the front facing. 

One of the features I like in this jacket is the welt pocket.
I cut the welts on the bias to provide contrast and allow the pockets to be visible. I really do not care for "invisible" pockets. 

I thought the contrast provided by the bias cut pieces is really attractive. This photo shows the welt pockets still basted close.

I thought the instructions for the welt construction were more than adequate. The key is accurate marking of stitching and cutting lines.

I initially used tailor's tack to mark the stitching lines. 

I ironed a strip of Totally Stable stabilizer cut in the size of the welt opening. I then machine basted around the perimeter.

View on the right side of fabric. The machine basting was clearly visible and more accurate than the tailor's tack. 

Machine basting on the cutting line instead of pencil or chalk marking. 

Easy enough to tear off the stabilizer when done.

Welt strips after they were sewn on the right side of the fabric. 

 Pocket pieces.

Welt pocket done and basted shut.

Another feature I liked was the way the lining was treated.

A piece of piping was sewn in between the facing and lining pieces making for a professional looking finish. 

 Inside views.

The rest of the constructionwas pretty simple and straightforward.

And now for photos of the finished garment. 

Not sure if the houndstooth and tattersall pattern in the fabric are obvious in desktop view. In smart phone and tablet, the pattern is more clearly seen. 

The side views clearly show the high-low hem.

Posing like the pattern envelope cover. 

Some close-up of details.

Cool pocket.

Pleated lining hem.

My personalized label.

 Stylin' my blazer.
Worn with store bought leggings and Jalie knit top. 

Worn with denim. 

Worn with ponte dress (Butterick 5672)

Worn with New Look 6345 skirt. 

Finally the whole ensemble from the Rag & Bone fabric. Trousers sewn using Vogue 9092.


  1. I hereby apply to be President of the Maria Violeta Fan Club! It is said that bespoke refers to the epitome of luxury tailoring. Can it still be so if you made the garment yourself? This jacket is sensational in every detail. Very, very well done!

    1. Oh Ann, you just made my day! I am really thankful for your encouraging words! Thanks for taking time out to read my blog.

  2. GORGEOUS! When I have time after Round 2, I'm going to actually read this for detail. Love your work, Maria, it is always inspiring. And, thanks for that pocket blog post link you put up on the Round 2 discussion board. I already had my stuff cut, but it was nice to confirm my method, and see some photos in progress. Some of the other pockets look to have excellent tips as well, so thanks again! Kathy (Kidnotes on

    1. Thanks so much Kathy!I'm glad you found the pocket tutorial link helpful. I always refer back to the tutorials of Kathryn Brenne even if just to confirm what I'm doing is correct. Good luck with round 2. Rooting for you to reach all the way to the finals!

  3. Gorgeous. This is beautifully done.

  4. Iv'e made several blazers lately with mixed results on the fit and the welt pocket construction, for my daughter. I will now try this one and thank you for your excellent notes! Beautiful results!

    1. Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm glad you found this post useful!

  5. I love this jacket and how versatile it is. However, it's the workmanship an attention to detail which takes it to a whole new level. All your makes are an inspiration to us all.
    In you estimation, would it be possible to create a closure for this jacket and if so what would you suggest

    1. Thank you so much for such kind words! Yes I think it would be possible to add a closure and I'd suggest something similar to Vogue 8910. Since the front edges don't overlap, I would add a loop on one edge and a button on the other. The loop would have to be applied before sewing the front facing on. Here is a link to the blog post I wrote about said jacket:

      If link doesn't work the post is dated November 15, 2019.

  6. What a tricky fabric for pattern matching! A very beautifully made jacket and an inspiring post! Thank you for providing such detailed commentary.

    1. Thank you so much for your lovely comment!