Monday, November 16, 2020

Simplicity 8957 Cords for Fall

First time I sewed this pattern was three months ago for the Pattern Review Endless Combination contest. I loved how it fit right from the envelope and the only alteration I needed then was to shorten the total length. I used a woven stretch then. For this latest version, I used a 100% cotton corduroy that did not have any form of stretch at all so I played it safe by adding ½” to the side seam allowances of the waistline and waistband. It turned out to be the right decision as the finished pants fit me so comfortably!

Although the pattern envelope says Misses’ Slim Leg pants, I thought the pants was not really slim fitting. There are five design options to choose from and all of them are just variations of the hems—cropped or regular length, buttoned vent on side, buttoned vent on back and plain. All views featured a waistband with belt carriers, fly front zipper opening, single button closure, side pockets and faux welt at the back.



I made view C which features a cropped length with buttoned side vents on the hem. However, I used a regular length because I thought cropped length does not flatter my short stature. I also skipped the belt carriers, side pockets and faux welt.

Fabric:

 
As previously mentioned, I used a 100% cotton woven. It is a 14 wale corduroy in the most gorgeous    shade called “Pumpkin Pie.” I purchased it from an Etsy shop called Oak Fabrics.

If you have sewn with corduroy before, then you know it has certain characteristics that require special consideration.                                                                       

I checked the direction of the nap and marked accordingly with a small sticky paper to remind me while laying out the pattern pieces. I had to make sure all pieces were properly oriented. 



I decided to cut the pattern pieces on single layer of fabric to avoid shifting.


I used  sew-in interfacing instead of fusible as it is not advisable to use high heat on corduroy. I didn't want to flatten those beautiful ridges!


Here is an example of the sew-in interfacing already attached to the fly piece. 

I used this handy dandy seam roller to "press" seams open in lieu of pressing with iron. 

Another thing to consider with corduroy is the bulk. To address this, instead of using the same fabric for the zipper underlap and waistband, I used a lighter weight woven cotton.


This printed cotton made for a nice contrast to the solid main fabric. 


Shown above are the zipper underlap and waistband. 

Another way to reduce bulk was by grading seam allowances, making sure to trim the innermost one, the one that would not be facing the outside. 

Finally, I skipped some features that I thought would unnecessarily add bulk like the belt carriers and the faux welt pocket at the back. 


Construction:

The sewing instructions in this pattern were really  easy to understand and quite detailed especially when it came to the fly front. Even beginners or those who haven’t sewn a lot of this type of pant closure (like me) will have no trouble. With that said here are some additional tips which I hope you will find helpful:



       It doesn’t say in the instructions but I found it best practice to finish the raw edges of both front pant pieces along the curved edge. Otherwise (especially if you are using the serger) it will be impossible to do so after the fly front has been assembled.


For topstitching along the fly front, I used the triple stitch feature on my sewing machine. Alternative would be to use topstitching thread. 

For dealing with the thicker seams, I used walking foot for sewing and Clover Wonder clips for securing instead of pins. 


For the front facing on the leg vent, the instruction only suggests finishing the inner edge. I thought it was better to finish the top edges too. Otherwise you would be leaving an exposed raw edge after it is attached to the leg piece. 

Finally, there is an error on step no. 17. It is only for views A and B and not C which has a vent. 

So here are some photos of the finished garment.  
















I love wearing this pair of pants. It is so comfortable! I see more corduroy pants in my future!







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6 comments:

  1. Wonderful! I appreciate all of the information and detailed photos.

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    1. Thanks for stopping by! Glad you found this post helpful.

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  2. Just discovered your wonderful blog and appreciate the detail that you share. Also listening to you on the Sew Organised Style podcast atm :)

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    1. Thanks so much for stopping by Heather! I so appreciate your kind words!

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  3. I've stumbled on your blog via a sewing podcast and instantly recognised your trousers. I made some in brushed denim and took the same approach - the buttoned version full length. Yours look amazing and fit perfectly.

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    1. Thanks so much Debra! This pattern is surely a keeper. I hope you are enjoying wearing your pants as much as I'm enjoying mine!

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