Creating My Oki Style Antwoord Top

While browsing Etsy for some indie patterns, I recently discovered this gem of a designer Oki Bukhuu. She creates and sells her sewing patterns under the name OkiStyle. I was drawn to her unique style which she describes as "experimental and alternative." I decided to take a plunge and give her pattern a try. 

The Antwoord Top features an asymmetrical collar with cut-out half-round neckline and extended shoulders. I have posted a detailed review of the pattern at PatternReview.Com. This post will focus on the construction aspect of the garment focusing on the trickiest part which is the neckline. 

The top itself is very simple to make. It has only three pattern pieces--the bodice (which is a single piece that include both front and back already), the neckline facing and the collar. 

Pattern Pieces

The bodice piece is such a clever design.  It is cut on fold and that is how the front and back are created. There is no shoulder seam, no hole for neckline, no sleeves. 

This is the neckline facing which is cut as a single piece and interfaced.  It helps to mark the front and back corners as they are asymmetrical. The front has a curved edge to it as opposed to the back which is more pointed. 

This is the collar piece and it is cut twice. I only interfaced one of the pieces. The photo is that of the muslin version I made.  Next photo is the actual contrast fabric I used which is left over from a previous project. 

 

Transferring Markings

This part may be a bit confusing. The single pattern piece which is laid out on the fold of the garment does not have any specifications as to front, back, shoulder, etc. The only markings included are for the neckline facing attachment and although one is labeled front and one labeled back, they are both located on the same piece. 

The trick is to trace the front marking to one side of the fabric while folded and then turn the fabric over and trace the back marking. The resulting marking should be a smooth curved one when fabric is unfolded. That will be used to match with the outer marking on the neckline facing. 

The markings also serve as the stitching guide when sewing the facing to the bodice. 

Some useful tips

Reinforce the corners with tiny stitches and square piece of silk organza prior to slashing. 

Mark the center of the markings to serve as guide for cutting. 

Clip curves before turning facing out. 

Here is a view of the half round neckline after facing has been turned. 

For the hem, I used narrow hemming following my favorite technique which you can read about here.

And now for some photos of the finished garment.