|This solid boiled wool is 60% viscose/40% wool.|
Color: Adobe Brown
|For lining I used stretch polyester charmeuse in Italian Almond, also from Mood.|
Dual Duty Plus jeans thread for topstitching.
Microtex size 70 for the lining
Blind hem foot for understitching.
Buttonhole foot for the buttonholes.
|I used masking tape to mark one side of the fabric as the right and wrong side were almost hard to distinguish from each other.|
|Cutting the pieces took longer than normal as I had to use single layout for all the pattern pieces.|
|Here are the cut pattern pieces.|
|Clips helped in areas that were too thick to pin.|
|Pocket flap after topstitching the edge. I did not really cared for how it looked.|
|I decided to just hand sew in place.|
|I think the flap looks better without the topstitching.|
|Pocket in action.|
|This is the finished shell. I already attached the shoulder pads and I added sleeve heads. I also added a chest shield on the front.|
|These are scraps of silk fabric from a previous project. I decided to make some flat piping for the lining/facing seamline.|
|In addition to the flat piping, I also used the silk print to make a frame for my personalized label.|
|Here's how I made the label frame using Heat n Bond Lite.|
|Hemming the coat's shell.|
For the lining, I also did my own as I did not care for the pattern instructions which have you sew the lining hem and then leave it free hanging so you can still the wrong side of the coat if you peek. I prefer the other method where you sew the lining's hem to the coat's hem, a few inches above the raw edge so the lining will have a soft pleat when all is done.
An important note about this. The lining will end up wider than the coat's hem if you don't sew the center back allowance. The lining back pieces were purposely drafted to be wider than the coat to allow for the upper back pleat. However the pattern instruction only addressed the upper back pleat and neglected to tell you what to do with the rest of the excess center allowance. It only mentioned basting it down.
|I added anchor buttons on the wrong side of the facing to hold the outside buttons more securely.|