Description on pattern envelope: Bias dress is floor length, lined and has contrast panel, contrast knot, asymmetrical seams, side slit, train, zipper and foundation with boning.
(Sewn along the curved seam.)
Attaching boning to foundation.
(Muslin shown here.)
Back of foundation
Fabrics recommended : crepe back satin, crepe, satin and crepe de Chine. Lining: charmeuse.
Crepe Back Satin in Atom Red
(I used the "wrong side" of the fabric for contrast and ribbon.)
Charmeuse in matching color used for lining.
(Lining was not straightforward either. A bit confusing to piece together.)
Level of difficulty: advanced.
- Sew a muslin first to ensure right fit. The seams are curved and asymmetrical so it is really difficult to alter once sewn. It might help to choose fabric with stretch. I did not use satin stretch as the color my daughter wanted was not available.
- Apply correct techniques for handling slippery delicate fabrics. I used satin pins where needed. I avoided chalk or pens to mark but only employed tailor’s tacks. I used Microtex sharp needle for my machine and a Bigfoot to ensure even feeding. I invested in a cheap invisible zipper foot to apply the zipper.
- Since pattern is cut on bias, be careful not to let fabric drape out of shape when putting it aside. The only time I let it hang was before hemming.
- Before applying the invisible zipper, I stabilized seam with organza tape.
- Be sure to copy all markings down. I usually skip a lot of markings when I sew but with this gown, it is essential to put the pieces together.
- Follow layouts carefully paying attention to the right and wrong side of fabric.
There are some mistakes in the pattern. The marking for clipping below zipper stop is off. Same with marking for the top of the side slit.